Reaching For The Sun

Pyramid of the Sun, Pyramids Of Teotihuacan, Mexico

(Photo courtesy of About.com.Mexico Travel, Teotihuacan Tour, By Suzanne Barbezat, About.com Guide) 

The Pyramids of Teotihuacan, "Where Men Become Gods", is one of Mexico's oldest and most impressive archaeological sites. Teotihuacan, at it's peak of development, is believed to have been the sixth largest city of  Mesoamerica. The ruins are massive stone structures, that have remained rich in detail. The two main pyramids at this site are known as Pyramid of the Sun and Pyramid of the Moon. Pyramid of the Sun, stands majestically at approximately 246 feet, making it the third tallest pyramid in the world! The grounds are impeccably maintained and the pyramids are open to those who wish to climb. Oh how I want to reach for the sun......

I have a fear of heights. Actually, I like to say I have a 50% fear of heights. Odd, right? But you see, I can climb upwards with very little fear, it is coming down, that can paralyze my mobility or have me scratching my way on all fours. Maybe what I have is a fear of falling? Whatever it may be, it is real and has held be back from witnessing some pretty amazing views. I have gotten better over the last few years. I have come to realize that opportunity has its' limits. I will not always be in good physical shape or be able to trust the capability of my legs, balance, or eyesight. Now is the time. So, as I stand among the Pyramids of Teotihuacan I find myself brave in words, but weak in determination. I really want to climb the Pyramid of the Sun.  El Senor offers me words of encouragement. "Set the pace, I will be right behind you."

Here We Go!

The View From The Top

(Behind, Pyramid Of The Moon)

There is power within your being, when you break through a fear factor. In that moment, you are the"King or Queen of the World". You also know, should opportunity arise again, you won't be on the sideline nervously wringing your hands, you will be first in line!

La Senora

Happy Holidays

El Senor & La Senora

On this day, December 21, 2012, the Mayan Calendar came to end and thus begins a "New Era".

Living in the Yucatan, placed us at the epicenter for the End of the Mayan Calendar. There has been a lot of anticipation, speculation and anxiety placed upon this day. The big question on everyone's mind, was whether or not we would be here today........

My day began yesterday at 11:55 p.m. I wanted to be awake for the arrival of the new day! At 12:00 a.m., I watched the moon from my kitchen window disappear into the clouds. For that moment all was at peace. I could rest easy.

Happy Holidays! May the New Era / New Year bring peace to our troubled world.

La Senora

December 12th Miracle

This story is in honor of my Nana (Grandmother), who passed away 12 years ago and for my sister, Rosemary, who brightened Nana's hospital room with a winter rose from her own garden.

The most popular religious icon in Mexico is Our Lady of Guadalupe (The Virgin Mary). While visiting Mexico City, we toured The Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe. I would like to share with you the story on how the Basilica came to be built.

The Antique Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe

On The Hill of Tepeyac 

                                                       

On the morning of December 9, 1531 the Indian peasant Juan Diego walked from his village to Mexico City. On the slope of  The Hill of Tepeyac, Juan Diego saw a vision of a woman surrounded by light; which he recognized to be The Virgin Mary. The Lady instructed Juan Diego to tell the Archbishop to have a church built on this site. Juan Diego went to the Archbishop, Fray Juan de Zumarraga, and told him of his vision and the request of The Lady for a church to be built on The Hill of Tepeyac. The Archbishop would not build a church on just the word of Juan Diego. He told Juan Diego that before he would build a church, he would need a miraculous sign to prove this lady's identity. Juan Diego returned to The Hill of Tepeyac to deliver the message of the Archbishop. The Lady asked Juan Diego to come back  the next day to gather flowers for his proof. Juan Diego left confused, it was winter, the land was barren, what flowers are in bloom? Returning to The Hill of Tepeyac, on December 12, 1531, Juan Diego found it filled with roses. Using Juan Diego's cloak, The Lady arranged the roses to be carried back and presented to the Archbishop. When Juan Diego opened his cloak before the Archbishop, the roses fell to the floor, and in their place was the image of Our Lady of Guadalupe, miraculously imprinted on the fabric of the cloak. This year, Juan Diego's cloak is 481 years old. Scientists do not know what was used to make the imprint of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

Enshrined Cloak of Juan Diego

Housed Within The New Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe

The New Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe

Upon hearing this story, I was overwhelmed with emotion and filled with memories of my dear Nana. Nana passed away on November 30, 2000. A few weeks prior, my sister noticed a fully bloomed rose had pushed it's way up through her snow covered garden. A surprise bloom made even more special by it's peach coloring. Peach colored roses were Nana's favorite flower! No proof was necessary for what we already knew and believed, Nana was an angel on earth.........

My thanks to our tour guide Sergio Solis and Wikipedia for the story of The Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

La Senora

The Blue House

Traveling to Mexico City, and visiting the home and  art studios of the famous Mexican Artists Frida Kahlo and her husband Diego Rivera, allowed me to check off an entry on my Bucket List!

Since I saw the movie "Frida", starring Selma Hayek, I have been fascinated with Frida and Diego. Yes, I am on a first name basis with them. I even have a framed photograph of the couple mixed in among our family photos! For a long time, I have wanted to see The Blue House (Frida's house) and to walk the catwalk that connects their respective art studios. I was not disappointed. The house is as colorful as the couple that lived in it. On the walls of the house are Frida quotes. Reading the quotes as I moved through the rooms left me feeling like I had had a conversation with a friend. I really enjoyed how this personalized my visit.

"Never in life I will forget your presence. You found me torn apart and you took me back full and complete."

One of my favorite Frida quotes is preserved in writing only, "I drank to drown the pain, then the pain learned how to swim". Everything Frida did, she did with great passion.

As a child, Frida was hit by a bus. From that day forward, her life was one of pain. Frida underwent numerous surgeries in hope of fixing her broken body and relieving pain. It was her father, who inspired Frida to paint during her long periods of  bed rest. As Frida matured, she feared that if she spoke of her pain, which was constant, she would not have any friends. So instead she vividly expressed her pain in her artwork.........

The Kitchen

Diego's Room

Frida's Room, A Reminder Of Loss

Shared Side By Side In-House Art Studio

Diego's Side

The Blue House Gardens

Frida and Diego's separate art studios connected by a catwalk. The studio on the left is Diego's, with Frida's on the right.

La Senora

It Has Been A While

It has been a while since my last post........

Summer has come and gone. I returned to the United States for a family visit. We took a pass in September on witnessing the Fall Equinox, at the ruins of Dzibilchaltun, in anticipation of the Winter Solstice and The End Of The Mayan Calendar. We bid farewell to good friends who are now traveling throughout Latin America. El Senor and I traveled to Mexico City to celebrate "Dia de Muerto" (Day of the Dead or All Saints Day). Now, I find myself with much to share and the possibility of very little time, due to a calendar end or falling off a cliff, so here we go again!

Mexico City is amazing! Imagine New York City as a colonial city, overflowing with incredible old world architecture.Then add in monuments, fountains, mountains, volcanoes and pyramids. Boost the population up to 25 million and sprinkle in 5 million vehicles. That, is Mexico City! Our 10 day stay was not nearly enough time to take in all the wonder. The following are highlights from our guided walking tour.

Monument To President Benito Juarez

Palace Of Fine Arts

Cathedral Of Mexico City, Located Within Constitution Square, Popularly Known As The Zolcalo, "The Religious, Political And Administrative Nerve Center Of Mexico City"

The National Palace In Constitution Square

Art School (Right) Of Famed Pupil Frida Kahlo

La Senora

The Girls Of Summer

Sol Beer Girls 

With all the activity of the summer season and the huge boost in population, Progreso is a business opportunity. On Saturdays and Sundays, the "Big Boys" come into town with the girls of summer and make quite a splash. The Big Boys, like to promote their companies and products through the employment of beautiful women. That is beautiful, scantly dressed women; insuring they catch the (male) eye of the public! Sol Beer, with the famous Sol Girls, is one of the biggest splash makers .These girls don't just stand around looking pretty and posing as pretend girlfriends for photographs. No, no, they can dance, shake, wiggle and roll all day long. They are very good at their job and will have you buying beer whether you are thirsty or not!

Sol Girls Grand Arrival
Motorized Beer Cooler..... Brilliant!

Shaking The Money Maker!

Other splash makers are Tostitos and Telcel, a little telephone company owned by Carlos Slim.

Tostito Girls

Telcel Girl

But lets not forget the real girls of summer. So boys, grab a beer and the one you love, and enjoy the last days of summer.......

La Senora

Living By Expiration Dates

Living abroad is living by expiration dates! To keep life running smoothly, it is important to calendar expiration dates a year in advance, so as not to be forgotten. Fortunately, or unfortunately, everything revolves  around the date in which you enter the country; making the month prior, a very busy one for renewals. For us, August is our busy time. Unlike living in the U.S.A., in Mexico, there are no renewal notices sent out 30 days in advance. Mexico, politely waits for you to make the inquiry; never assuming that you will continue on with their services. Hence, the need to ALWAYS calendar expiration dates!

Renewal of our Visas is always top priority. No, not our credit cards, but the permit that allows us, as foreigners, to stay in the country for an extended period of time (1 year). By choice, we have always completed the application on our own, without the help of a service or an attorney. We look at it as a Spanish language learning tool. Three years ago, Mexico implemented computer generated Visa renewal applications. This was a huge step forward by The Department of Immigration; saving time for both the department and the individual applying.

Our first attempt, 3 years ago, was a disaster. The department saved time, we on the other hand, turned a 30 minute task into an all day affair. The day ended with a rescue call to our English speaking Mexican friends for help. They in turn completed our applications, within 30 minutes, and without any translation problems! To be fair to ourselves, I need to mention that we also had some computer problems with enabling certain programs.Year two, with the aid of copies from the previous year, we achieved success within a hour. Okay, maybe it was closer to 2 hours. Year three, this year, we hit the lottery! Question number 3 asked if you know your NUE number? To be honest, I am not sure if this question has always been on the application or if it is new to this year. It is an optional fill in question. Being of the belief that less is best, we usually never give out any more info than what is required. But, for some reason this question (this year) piqued our curiosity. Not knowing what a NUE number is, we figured it must be information noted on the visa. So we grabbed our visas and started scanning line by line.The NUE number is the set of numbers listed on the front right side of the visa. Looking harmless, we decided  to type in the numbers and when we hit enter, the application auto filled. How sweet it is!

In Mexico, they have a saying, "poco a poco", which translates to "little by little". Little by little, everything comes together or works itself out. Well, it may have taken us 3 years to get to this point, but the point is, little by little we are getting there............

La Senora

Armando

Meet Armando,

Armando With The Church Ladies Of The Soup Kitchen

Armando, is a Padre (Priest) in training and the "golden child" of the church that sponsors the soup kitchen. He is young, charismatic and adored by all. Every Tuesday and Friday, Armando dines with the patrons of the soup kitchen. Like a ray of sunshine, he lights up the dinning room and those around him. He shares a word with everyone, leaving a smile upon their faces. At the end of July, Armando returned to Mexico City, to complete his final year in the seminary. After graduation, he will be assigned to a new church of his own. His departure has weighed heavily on the hearts of the ladies from the soup kitchen. In a sign of appreciation and gratitude, the soup kitchen held a special luncheon to say goodbye. I was extended an invitation, and honored to join in the festivities.

Luncheon Preparations

Special Time With Armando

Earlier in the month, a friend had given me a bag of Dove chocolates (from the U.S.A.) to share with the patrons of the soup kitchen. With chocolate being a luxury item in this community, they were a big hit. Ara (a.k.a.Mother Superior), asked if I could bring another bag of the chocolates to Armando's luncheon as a goodbye gift from all the ladies. Relying on the kindness of my dear friend, I was able to obtain another bag of Dove chocolates. The ladies presented a beautiful lunch and we all enjoyed our special time with Armando. After lunch, we gave Armando his gifts, a bottle of cologne and the Dove chocolates. Armando sweetly held the bag to his heart when giving thanks and then graciously shared a piece with all of us. These delicious morsels come individually wrapped in foil. Once opened, under the chocolate morsel is a feel good message (in English). Armando, was first to open his chocolate, saw the message and in perfect English read it out loud. I couldn't believe it. I looked at him as though he just performed a miracle! You speak English! "Yes, and I read English too"! But you never talk to me in English? "There was no need, you may speak Spanish badly, but you make yourself understood"..............

Gift Of Cologne

Gift Of Dove Chocolates

La Senora

Summer in Progreso

The school year has ended and summer is upon us. Starting in mid July, and for the next 8 weeks, our tranquil fishing village will be invaded by vacationers. All week long we feel the influx of people. By the week's end, we average between 75,000 - 100,000+ visitors. Now that is a lot of company! Popular restaurants and retail businesses from around the peninsula, take advantage of our increased population and set up temporary locations, "to make hay while the sun is shining". Believe me, the sun shines all week long and is at it's brightest Friday through Sunday! The Malecon (Beach Boardwalk), is host to many free activities and concerts. The one constant all summer long is the people watching. The show is priceless and never ending! El Senor and I really enjoy this temporary craziness and try to take advantage of all it has to offer. With each passing year, I am left wondering if this is a glimpse into the crystal ball? Are we seeing the future of Progreso? For now, this is simply looked upon as the summer season. But, with Tourism at the forefront of future developments, the day is coming. It may take 5 - 10 years, but one day, everyday will be summer in Progreso..............

La Senora

Summer's Parking Lot

Weekend Company

Left, Right, Cha, Cha, Cha

Hanging With The Church Ladies

Once a week I volunteer at the local soup kitchen. No, no, no, don't pat me on the back. I do this not only to help others, but to help myself in learning Spanish and how to cook the regional foods that El Senor and I have come to love. The soup kitchen is located in the neighboring town of Chicxulub and is sponsored by the town's Catholic Church. We are a total of 5 volunteers; 4 ladies of the church and me, their wayward, non Spanish speaking "American daughter".

Hanging With The Church Ladies

The soup kitchen operates predominantly through the donation of food . All types of foods are accepted, even opened items. As the women like to say, "food is food". Preparing a meal to feed 60 is a challenge in itself. Their ability to stretch ingredients would marvel "The Food Network"! The secret is in the chopping. The smaller you can chop the food, the more there is to stretch. No one leaves hungry under their watch. They even feed the soul  through their compassion toward others.

Ara, a.k.a. Mother Superior

 Ara, is in charge of the soup kitchen and the sole key holder of the refrigerator and food pantry. Nothing slips by Ara. She knows exactly what is on hand at all times. She is a shy, no nonsense woman. Ara is also a good listener. Whether it is for consoling or advice, everyone seeks out Ara.

Cecilla, a.k.a. The Chef

Cecilla is the miracle worker and my cooking instructor. Cooking is her life; after her grandchildren. She enjoys my interest in the regional foods and is proud to share her recipes. She is also very determined to teach me Spanish. Anything that she uses, she will first hold it out in front of me and very slowly say its name in Spanish, then wait for me to repeat it.

Carmen, a.k.a. Flo

Carmen has a big heart and just goes with the flow. Wherever she is needed, that is where she will be. Carmen enjoys gardening and makes sure the dinning room always has fresh flowers. She is the surrogate grandmother to all the children of the soup kitchen.

Mama Chu, a.k.a. The Cleaner

Mama Chu is known as Mama Chu to everyone. She is a beautiful Mayan woman, who is always happy and never without a smile. She makes us all laugh. She is that special someone, that everyone wants to be around and she knows everyone and their history. Mama Chu makes sure that the soup kitchen always looks its best. "Everyone deserves a nice place to sit and eat, even if it is only for a short time".

I must admit, more times than not, I am left with the feeling of having received  much more than what I have given............

La Senora

The Beauty And Wonder Of A Door

Santa Elena, Yucatan, Mexico

Yucalpeten, Yucatan, Mexico

I love doors! The older, more distressed the door is, the more beauty and wonder it beholds. When I look at a door, I see an untold story. How old is this door? Is this the original door? Was this door always located here or has it been moved and why? Who lives behind this door? How many families saw this door as home? Does this door lead to happiness or despair? Is the color of the door symbolic? What is the happiest and saddest piece of history this door has lived through? Depending on the imagination, the questions are endless and so may be the story.............

La Senora

Progreso, Yucatan, Mexico

Best Crazy Ever

Okay, I have done some pretty crazy things in my life but this trumps everything. I had my eyes tattooed! No, no, not with some crazy designs. Though, I did find Johnny Depp's eye make-up in the movie "Pirates of the Caribbean" intriguing. I had my upper and lower eye lids outlined. I have wanted to do this for some time, but lacked the courage to do it. Some friends recently went and had their eyes done with very good results. I now had visual references, a studio name and an artist with experience and a solid track record. This was all the encouragement that I needed. An appointment was made. I was still very concerned about my decision. I felt like I was playing with fire. These are my only eyes!  The night before the appointment, I was anxious and restless. By 3:00 a.m. I was on the computer researching the pros and cons of eye tattoos. Even Mayo Clinic weighs in on eye tattooing. "Don't do it"! This startled me. Mayo Clinic is the Mecca of Medicine. They saved my mother's life last year. I value their opinion. I felt sick to my stomach. Still, I decided to keep the appointment. I was going with 3 friends, who were all scheduled for a tattoo as well. I could always back out. On the way to the tattoo studio, I expressed my need to go first. Funny, everyone was in agreement? What can I say, they know me well!

Ricardo, of "Tattoo Rich" (Merida), was very professional. When I stepped up to take a seat in his chair, I clasped my shaking hands together and proceeded to tell him that I was very nervous. He smiled and laughed! There was no hiding. My nerves were visibly out of control. We discussed color and application. I wanted to look very natural. My eyes were prepped . With my friends huddled around the chair for support, Ricardo began. The girls reminded me to breathe. I hadn't realized I had been holding my breath for 2 minutes! There was no pain. There was a bearable amount of pressure on the eye and eye lid due to Ricardo's finger placement in holding the lids still and in place. The tattooing of the lower eye lid was visually weird. You are looking into a bright light and even though you are told to look up, you still have sight of the tattoo gun coming at your eye.. Ricardo was very fast and precise. In less than 10 minutes, I was happily admiring my new eyes in the mirror. Yes, this is the best crazy ever..................

Seriously Up Close And Personal

Natural / Make- Up Free

La Senora

Almost Four Years Later

This September (2012), we will have been in Yucatan for four years. For my husband Jim, who I will now refer to in future blogs as "El Senor", the transition of retirement and moving to a new country has been easy. He enjoys telling me how his feet where meant to be in the sand! As for me, I needed a year to detox from the working world. I struggled daily with the feeling of not accomplishing enough "things" in one day. If I wasn't busy all day long, I must be wasting time! Over the years, family and friends have often asked if we are happy and would you do it again? The answer is YES, on both fronts.This journey continues to be filled with life lessons. The opportunity to look at life through a new window is priceless and I will continue to share the "view" through this blog! We have had the good fortune of meeting and becoming friends with some amazing people. We have purchased a house and have made it home. Visitors are always welcome! We continue to immerse ourselves within our community. Though we still struggle with the Spanish language, we have made great strides over the years. We remain hopeful that one day we will be able to converse in full grammatically correct sentences! I must say, our attempts are always appreciated and usually bring on a smile or a laugh. Currently, the most frequently asked question is what do you do all day? We simply survive. We continue to travel mainly by bicycle. We prefer to shop locally and daily  for our food. Depending on what we want to eat for the day, gathering of the necessary ingredients, may require stopping at 3-4 different tiendas (small neighborhood mom & pop grocery stores). Needless to say, the day passes quickly. I am now ecstatic if I accomplish one "thing" a day! Purchasing and preparation of food excluded. My how life has changed..........

El Senor's Favorite Hangout

La Senora 

La Senora

Wait, I Call Legal

The last piece of the puzzle to our arrival in Yucatan was to register our visas with the local Immigration Office. The Mexican Consulate of Chicago, had told us this is a time sensitive issue and should be completed promptly. Not ones to procrastinate, on day 3 of our arrival we went to the Immigration Office. At the reception desk, it is standard procedure that all paper work and identification be checked and organized before office entry. Our papers were in order but our passports were checked and re-checked? With raised eyebrows and very wide eyes, the receptionist looked up at us and said, "big problema". What is wrong? "Passports no stamp when you come Mexico". We can explain. " Wait, I call legal". Believe me, story or no story, you don't want to be told those words by Immigration! Legal provided us with an English speaking attorney; who held an impromptu deposition in the reception area. We explained the events of our Matamoras border crossing. How we attempted to stop to have our passports stamped and how the Federale would not allow us access to parking. For maximum effect, we used the same hand gestures as the Federale, who would not allow us to park, but shouted go, go, go. What would you have done? "Wait while I talk with my boss". This seems to be a repeating scenario for us within the walls of Immigration! For 2 hours, we fretted over our potential outcome. What will be our penalty? Will it be monetary? Will we be taken to jail ? Will we be  deported? Do we need to call the American Consulate, a U.S. Senator or CNN? The lawyer returned, handed us a 3 page document and 2 pens. "Sign". What is this document? Could you please translate? "It is your story". "Sign the document, we stamp your passports and you are legal". That's it? "Yes". Nothing else is required? "No". There will be no problems in the future? "No". "You already have your visas". You tried to do to it right". "Matamoras was the problem, not you". Having obtained our visas in advance, showed good faith and saved us from stiff penalties for an illegal border crossing. Hail to the Girl Scout mantra of being prepared! Where do we sign and may we have a copy please.............

La Senora

Forts, Borders, Home

September 4, 2008 Campeche, Mexico

Until this morning, I had not realized how much tension I had internalized. Between the topes, road construction and the infamous garage crawl, I have had both of my feet firmly planted on my imaginary brakes and my thighs are killing me!
Construction, construction, and more construction. It had been another long day of travel. Our reward was Campeche! Campeche sits majestically on the Gulf of Mexico. It is an old colonial city, architecturally preserved and surrounded by a fortress of walls. We were so fascinated, that we decided to end our day early and spend the night relaxing in this beautiful city.

Campeche Shoreline

Fortress Walls

September 5, 2008 Progreso, Yucatan, Mexico

At the border crossing  into the State of Yucatan, rather than being waved on through, we were stopped for the very first time. We were approached by several officers. Our passports were requested and the van was visually inspected. Returning our passports, we were asked one word questions (in Spanish). Jim repeated each word, as I tried to find the word in our Spanish dictionary. After 3 failed attempts, one of the officers shouts out in English, "chicken, pig, cow"? Seriously (I think to myself)! Where could we possibly harbor an animal? Smiling I held up our only contraband, water bottles and candy. Frustrated and not amused, the officer waved us on in a celebratory manner, or so I chose to believe!
" Bienvenidos Yucatan" (Welcome to Yucatan)............

Progreso, Here We Come!

Happy To Be Home!

La Senora